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wickid
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 9:26 pm   Reply with quoteBack to top

Just got this Wednesday. Was contemplating posting yet, as there are issues which are getting resolved. But anyway, I know the pic ho-r's youz guys are so here goes ...
(more pix added)






















This one is the plain all-Koa Jane variety of the new CT324M model, with a touch of bling. Still running it through its paces yet - still under evaluation. On day 1 the p/up selector started cutting out. Contacted Carvin, and getting a new switch sent out to replace. So its tough to fairly evaluate it yet.

A note for you guys when you get a new Carvin in extreme weather.
** Let the neck settle before touching the truss rod. **
When this came, in cold snowy weather, the neck was rather straight. No buzzing, but sounded ... tight, like when the action is too low. Probably within spec, but maybe at the minimum. I was VERY tempted to tweak it, but decided to give it a day or 2. And it has settled right into about normal on its own after a day or 2.

I ordered this with a covered M22T ($25). At factory height its pretty thin, and not very M22T-like. But I knew this cuz I covered a regular M22T myself on another CT3T. I knew enough to roll the p/up up closer to the strings - the highest point is about 3-4 64ths from the hi-e (when pressed at the 24th fret). I'm still mulling this one over. Its not quite as hot as the covered one I did, but a) this one is probably potted, and b) the p/up selector may be affecting this some.

I'm also not sure if I'm bonding with the neck p/up in its relative 24-fret pos. Again, might also be too early to make a call. I know the 22-fret CT neck has more complex tones - more depth AND brigthness. Maybe its warmer which lets the tone slant a bit more toward the treble. We'll see.

Also, what I do like, is the dual-HB setting (when it doesnt cut out, right now) has less twang than the 22 fret (also experience less twang in my 24 fret DC models), but still a nice clean tone. I like that a bit better, altho I was getting accustom to it w/ the 22-fret CTs. Its a more .. even response rhythm tone. Dont always want that twang on a strum or string picking.

Anyway, there she is.

Ordered around 8/31. Had to wait for a Koa slab fat enough for a CT3 body. Rec'd 1/26.


Last edited by wickid on Sat Jan 29, 2011 12:38 pm; edited 1 time in total
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sirmyghin
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 9:32 pm   Reply with quoteBack to top

Looks beautiful. Not really a koa fan but that is subtle enough.



BTW a 24 fret neck position will have more harmonics and less fundamental, hence brighter. A 22 with have more fundamental and less harmonics, hence warmer, and it will infact be less complex. You are more associating a tone you want through habituation to be the more complex one.
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wickid
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 9:39 pm   Reply with quoteBack to top

With all due respect, no - the 24 fret neck p/up demonstrates a more fundamental tone - in all MY DCs and this CT324, vs MY other CTs. The CTs are warmer, yes, but more complex with a balance with brightness.
Habituation? C'mon! Shame on you
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sirmyghin
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 8:51 am   Reply with quoteBack to top

wickid wrote:

Habituation? C'mon! Shame on you


Definitely people like to make a huge deal about the small difference between a humbucker 1/2" farther away from the neck heel because it is not what they are used to. The neck pickup closer to the bridge will increase overtones, it is the same reason even on 22 fretters Leo moved it back 1/2 an inch with G&L. Overtones are generally associated with brightness, as they give it that shimmer not present with too much fundamental.

I like a 22 fret and 25.5 scale so I have loads of room between neck and bridge (lots of room to pick in different places). But other than that, people spend too much time worrying about this stuff and not enough time doing as Zappa advised. Shut up 'n Play yer guitar.
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Delta362
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 10:14 am   Reply with quoteBack to top

Looks like a really beautiful guitar, Rob! Sorry the pickup selector switch isn't working, though. Are they going to extend your 10 day trial while the replacement is on its way? With that being all koa, did it void your 10-day trial?

What is the neck pickup in there? The bridge pickup isn't quite there, huh? Like you, I enjoy the M22T as well. I think it's one of the hidden gems in the lineup.

Hope all gets fixed and you have more opportunity to decide how the guitar will suit you.
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wickid
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 12:00 pm   Reply with quoteBack to top

I spoke with Albert and asked about the trial period extension, and he said no problem - he was aware of it. I have a tool from StewMac to "grab" that reeded-edge nut holding the switch on from the top, so I shouldnt be scratching the finish or anything. I didnt see any mention of voiding the trial, they just needed to get the Koa blanks.

This switch always holds the neck pos, but I have to wiggle it to get the bridge, the middle is almost hopeless at this point.

The neck p/up is an S22J which I have in other CTs, and works fine for me. And I went with the covered M22T because of the tonal preference, experience in that other CT, and didnt want 1 covered/1 uncovered p/up (that, the gold HW, and diamond abalone inlays were the bling I ordered).

Plus, what I've been mentioning about not bonding isnt that the tones are bad in any way, really - but could be better - more complex (whether that be more or less overtones, I dont really care Razz thanks tho ). The CTx24 is slightly different from the CTx for sure, and I was expecting that to some degree. Its just a matter of time to take the CT324 for what it is.
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sirmyghin
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 12:20 pm   Reply with quoteBack to top

Fair enough Wickid, good luck. I am sure the switch doesn't help with the first impressions though, I avoid those toggles for that reason. A blade switch has never let me down.
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wickid
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 12:47 pm   Reply with quoteBack to top

Added a few more pix to the original post. (some fairly lousy - ha!)

Yeah, they're not the heartiest of switches, but I havent had 1 of those switches fail like that until now. It happens.
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sirmyghin
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 3:14 pm   Reply with quoteBack to top

wickid wrote:
Added a few more pix to the original post. (some fairly lousy - ha!)

Yeah, they're not the heartiest of switches, but I havent had 1 of those switches fail like that until now. It happens.


I am kind of curious to see how the 'neck' pickup will sound on my incoming (t minus 1/2 a year or so). 26 frets... He offers 3 scales for 6s and 7s, but they operate as a conversion neck. So 25.5 = 24 fret, 26.3 = 25, 27.5 = 26, and the bridge is in the same place every time. Probably a little closer to a middle humbucker at that point, or maybe something completely different.
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treg
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 8:46 pm   Reply with quoteBack to top

Looks good.

I wonder if the tone is affected negatively by such a thick piece of koa as opposed to the thinner pieces on the DC and bolt-on series. I can't imagine the bridge being moved would make that much difference, though the pickups being closer might. The only other possibility I can think of is the broken switch somehow bleeding off some tone. Think

Hope it works out.

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wickid
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 9:34 pm   Reply with quoteBack to top

treg wrote:
Looks good.

.... The only other possibility I can think of is the broken switch somehow bleeding off some tone. Think

Hope it works out.

That thought has crossed my mind, as well as the Koa contribution. The cover/potting might also be affecting it. I can always go with an S22B if need be. On its own, its not all that bad, really. I've been all over the place with the tone knob trying to dial it in however. I'll wait till its patched up.

I have been holding the thought of going with the same exact specs on a CT3M - it was also in my original specs (for quite some time), but wanted to try the new model. I might just be partial to that. We'll see.

BTW, here is the CT3T where I covered the M22T/C22N with StewMac or AllParts covers. (just an excuse for another pic haha, been getting better results with the iAuto setting lately - only took me over 1 year to read ANY part of the manual)

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wickid
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 4:34 pm   Reply with quoteBack to top

Thought I had this sorted out as I had the switch working again yesterday. Thought it was shorting out with contact with the copper foil. Put some elec tape in between to be sure. But today its conking out again. The new switch is on its way.
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wickid
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 4:47 pm   Reply with quoteBack to top

Update -
Got the new switch late Thur, installed late Friday, gave it a bit of a run, but needed to cleanse the pallet for a while. Ran it thru its paces more today.

Its definitely improved. I was being a bit stubborn I guess trying to sort things out with the switch in that condition (I couldnt just let it sit there looking plain and pretty Wink ). The bridge p/up was rather weak when it did come thru on the switch, and I wasnt dialing the neck in to my liking either. I was twisiting the tone knob all over, trying to find my balance between bridge/neck, as I do. I couldnt believe a faulty switch could have such a strong affect, I guess (other than cutting in/out).

My thoughts before were that the neck was blah, the bridge was anemic, and the in between (when it was working) was OK. Definitely uninspired (and apparently so, huh?).

The covered M22T isnt for everybody (its 1 of my favs - uncovered). Its tricky to find its sweet spot, and needs to be closer to the strings. I've tried this once before, and it was a similar experience. So it wasnt so much a surprise this time. I even measured this at 1 point to be sure it was the right model - and it measured between 12.8 and 13-ish Kohms, so it was in range of the 13.3 of an uncovered M22T (other elec components may have been affecting the measurement).

With the new switch, the bridge is close to 85-90% of the output of the other covered M22T I have (unpotted), so its real close.

The neck sounds pretty good, and I can dial in the tone between the 2 (still tweaking the balance on that some). I still have a preference for the 22 fret neck p/up tone, but this is very good as well, just somewhat different. More like my DC models in the neck, actually somewhere between the 24 fret DC and my other CTs. So its a compromise between those 2, but a rather good one. Still very warm and smooth, a little more even response to me.

The dual HBs together, clean, to me are better than the 22-fret-CT or DC. It combines, for me, the best of both - with less twangy-ness of the CT(22), yet a fuller tone similar to the CT (over the DC). Very glassy and works well with or w/o chorus, with a splash of reverb. When using that in between dual HBs, I like it to change the tone w/o adding in the twang to change the character sometimes. And this pulls it off. Its not a tone I use often, but it is a case where I have a preference with this CT324.

Before I was 85% considering going with something else - either return for a 22 fret CT3 w/similar options, or even maybe simply swapping the bridge to an S22B (thats still under consideration). But now I've flipped, but still have like 15% of a back-burner idea of going CT3. I'll probably stick with this and enjoy the differences it presents. I might yet clip the treble-bleed across the volume - I often do that, just a slight preference (you might even call it placebo, but I swear I've noticed a marked improvement - fuller bridge tone - with the other covered M22T guitar). Like I said, I may try a gold S22B at some point as well.
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sirmyghin
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 5:06 pm   Reply with quoteBack to top

Interesting stuff wickid. Clipping the capacitor would definitely be placebo though, I install a modified treble bleed on axes, makes the volume a master volume no tone effect.
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treg
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 5:29 pm   Reply with quoteBack to top

What about a covered M22SD? Wouldn't the higher output make up for the cover?

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wickid
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 6:23 pm   Reply with quoteBack to top

treg wrote:
What about a covered M22SD? Wouldn't the higher output make up for the cover?

I imagine it could - but I feel its too biased in the treble for my taste. Havent tried it though to be sure. But I'm not a huge fan of the uncovered version. I think somebody has tried it and liked it. But I dont recall much specific info about it.
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Delta362
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 6:31 pm   Reply with quoteBack to top

I'm surprised the switch made such an impact, but it does make sense. Poor connection means signal loss, could be total or partial. Glad you're liking it more now, Rob. Yeah!
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wickid
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 9:19 pm   Reply with quoteBack to top

wickid wrote:
treg wrote:
What about a covered M22SD? Wouldn't the higher output make up for the cover?

I imagine it could - but I feel its too biased in the treble for my taste. Havent tried it though to be sure. But I'm not a huge fan of the uncovered version. I think somebody has tried it and liked it. But I dont recall much specific info about it.

Think
The covered M22T still shows some subtle signs of being weaker than I prefer (or am used to, its measuring around 12.9Kohms, another I have is around 13.1 - dont know if that has any bearing, as close as it is). So I'm starting to give this more thought. I have my DC400 with an M22SD lowered a bit, and played it last night. Didnt sound too bad. I have an old M22SD pulled out of a used Bolt+ I got. It was tapped for wood screws for direct-mount, but I could flip it 180 and have the machine screw taps available for the mount ring. I went to my local guitar shop looking for gold covers ... they only had the Gibby ones w/6 holes. And I *just* placed an AllParts order - if I only ordered the covers at that time.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:25 pm   Reply with quoteBack to top

I'd say give the SD a try without the cover first. All that thick mahogany might warm it up enough. Think

Can't you call and edit your AllParts order?

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wickid
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:35 pm   Reply with quoteBack to top

treg wrote:
I'd say give the SD a try without the cover first. All that thick mahogany might warm it up enough. Think

Can't you call and edit your AllParts order?

The other order shipped already - just some knobs. I could try it w/o the cover, but I'm locked into not mixing the covered/uncovered look on this. Plus I think the cover changes it enough it might not tell me much. I might just get the covers anyway. Would've been great if they sold these as singles.
The other guitar was Koa neck/body + maple cap, and the SD was lowered a bit to reduce the SD heat a skooch. And that wasnt too bad. This CT is also Koa all over.
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